If it's mod cons and flashy rooms you're after, this is not your place. Wifi is only available in odd places, and the beds are a bit ricketty. But if you want to go back in time to a more civilised era, then you'll love it. A gong invites you to excellent meals, with coffee served in the lounge where guests chat and play games. No en suites, but a plethora of hot water options after a long day hiking, with a couple of truly amazing Victorian surprises. Friendly and helpful staff who make you feel like family. Fabulously placed to explore Snowdonia, it describes itself as 'the home of British mountaineering', famously used as a base by Hilary and Tenzing. We fell in love with the place.