We've sadly just returned from a week staying at Seabreeze resort and we could not have asked for a better break.

Flights to Samoa from Brisbane do not operate on a great schedule - hours arrived in Samoa at 3.15am! The boys from Seabreeze were there to greet us as we came through customs and soon had us bumping down the road for the 1 1/2 hr transfer to the resort. Traffic problems have yet to find Samo, and at the stupid hour of arrival, the only other things sharing the road were pigs, sleeping dogs, the odd cow and a few horses - all handled skilfully by our driver as he sang along to Samoan reggae themed Christmas carols. ( Samoans love to sing - they do it well, and they did it pretty much all the time).

Arriving at the resort just as dawn was breaking was tonic for the soul. (Side note to the website design - the photos DO NOT do justice to what greeted us). The resort sits in its own private cove, which makes for a very intimate and private space.

We stayed in one of the Deluxe Beach Front Villas. These villas are very spacious, With a roomy main room with king bed and divan opening onto a large covered deck. The views from the room are nothing short of amazing. ( again - the website doesn't to justice to this view). Perched right above the beach you get an uninterrupted view over the reef from the deck - and lying in bed through bifold doors that open onto a wrap around verandah. Separate bathroom and toilet - how many times have I wished our accommodation had this arrangement. The shower is amazing - right on the beach with louvres ( bottom half frosted glass) that makes it seem like you are showering outside. Our room ( as with the whole resort) was beautifully presented and spotlessly clean - which is no mean feat when you are perched right on the ocean.

The resort pool has one of the best outlooks of any resort I have stayed in. This is not a big resort, so you will never be mobbed by the masses, and they have a no kid policy.

The restaurant/bar shows how good simple design make the location the hero - views from every angle catching the sea breeze. Our included daily breakfast started with a fruit platter with yogurt and muesli. Followed by a limited selection of hot dishes.. So nice not to have a buffet breakfast and to have something freshly cooked. We loved the omelettes. We ate at the resort overnight and had the Tuna 3 out of 5 nights... it was that good. Perfectly cooked served with a selection of steamed then charred vegetables. There was a good selection on the menu - and wood fired pizza oven on Sunday ( looked good and would have loved to have been there to try). Dinner in the resort was on par price wise with what you would pay in a mid range restaurant in Australia ( but don't forget your forking you tuna, virtually sitting over the waves on one of the prettiest and more remote parts of the globe). Local beers are good (Valima for us). The resort has a modest selection of wines, and the Prosecco and Chardonnay we drank was perfectly fine. In my experience, cocktails depend on who makes them - no different here. My only tip to to the intending traveler is to bring your own stubby cooler ( one of the returning guests had packed appropriately. There could be few finer places to enjoy a cold beer while sitting in a pool looking out over the ocean - Samoa is hot and humid and our experience was that those beers tending to warm up pretty quickly.

Somoa is not a cheap Bali-esque type of holiday. The trade off is that there are far fewer people, less overdevelopment and all-in-all, a much calmer vibe. We were talking on the way home that this was one of the most relaxing holidays we have had.

If you are thinking of Samoa - I would certainly look at Seabreeze if you are after a small, quiet, calm stay. Things are pretty spread out in Samoa, my tip would be to hire a car. Driving is easy, and there are only about 3 roads on Upolu, so you can't go wrong.