Back during the 1992 war (yes, hard to imagine but there was a short civil war in Tajikistan), this Hotel, with its very central location and solid Soviet infrastructure (as part of the Intourist hotels accredited to accept foreigners in the USSR) was the hub of action, with ample opportunity to mingle with sojourning journalists and diplomats. It was also the only place in town one could get a decent hot shower and those of us who lived in apartments used to pay 20 dollars for a room just for the shower twice a week. Flash forward to 2011, and the Hotel has recently been renovated, with a glitzy lobby, neon lights and modern facilities. It seems to have lost much of its soul, however. Feels bare, lifeless.

Having said this, its central location, within walking distance of all government buildings, next to the central Park, the central department store (Tsum) and a stone's throw from the fabulous traditional teahouse (Chaikhaneh Rahat) still make its location unbeatable. It also has an ATM machine in the lobby, a travel agency, a tourist shop and the ubiquitous crew of young men that sit on the couches and 'guard' the guests at night. The new Hyatt, with its gorgeous design and colors, spa, wall-to-wall windows overlooking the mountains, and gourmet buffet breakfast, may seem to put Hotel Tojikiston to shame. But even if the prices are incomparable (although I hear of people getting similar rates using various discounts), I still would recommend Hotel Tojikistan because of its location if you want to walk on the two main roads of Dushanbe and if you want to see Tajiks actually. A Hotel Serena is being constructed which will put even the Hyatt to shame. But unless you are a prince or on a very high expense account, you can expect to go to tea there only.

I still regret though that Hotel Tojikistan has such tiny tiny single rooms (a reviewer rightly called them cells), especially since their balconies open up on the back dump/garage/power plant. Apparently they are going to build a pool there. Let's hope it materializes and that it comes with a green garden. The rooms though have the basic amenities you need. The elevator plays music, which is a good thing because it takes ages to go up. Look on the bright side. Hotel Tojikistan may not be the best bet in town, but it is the most genuine relic of the Soviet world going Chinese comfort class. Stay there for authenticity at least.