Hungary is not Northern Italy or Burgundy, as no other country is. In everyday experience it means that while in Budapest there are now very high-quality restaurants, in the countryside the picture is less bright. This is, however, slowly changing. In the North-Eastern town of Mád, perhaps the "epicenter" of the Tokaj wine-region, there are as many as three very good ones now, Percze being perhaps the best priced of them. In brief very innovative, high quality cuisine, served - weather permitting - on a very attractive terrace. On workdays at lunchtime there are budget meals for as little as some 3.5 euros, as good as any from the menu. They only serve white wines, understandable considering the location but admittedly they are trying to adjust the menu to this. (No dishes which specifically ask for red.) The wines they serve are from the Szepsy family's winery, one of the very best - if not the best indeed - in this region. Having tried most of them - there are not too many dry ones served by the glass - all were good, the older vintages though being to concentrated and heavily aromatic and mineral for my taste. (May appeal to other palates.) The younger vintages are absolutely superb, the very best of this great wine region. Although take-away price for wines is the same as for locally consumed (quite unusual pricing, for that matter) I would tend to say that it is not the take away which is expensive but the one drunk there is a bargain. Service is also excellent. A must try, in brief, if and when passing nearby.
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