As expected for a Great Walk, it was hard. We packed carefully but our rucksacks weighed 13kg. The walk to Luxmore hut, in the rain was a steady slog uphill through beautiful forest, past towering limestone bluffs and finally across alpine tussock moorland. Luxmore hut was cold even with a fire and the effect of about 50 people making food and drying clothes made the inside damp. Once fed and tucked up in warm sleeping bags we slept well. On day 2 we hiked across the snow covered mountain ridge in poor visibility, but the track was easy to follow. Between the two shelters, the cloud cleared and the sun began to shine in a blue sky, as we made the long descent to Iris Burn hut and back into the forest. The long views from high up had been tremendous. Day 3 dawned warm and bright so we welcomed the shade whilst under the trees. We also hiked along a beautiful valley with some very high waterfalls. We reached Lake Manapouri and shortly after, Motorua hut for our last overnight. Our bunks in the dorm allowed a fabulous view of the night sky through the long windows By now we had become firm friends with several of our fellow trampers whom we had spent time with in the huts, or on the track. Our last day was a walk in the forest, often beside the river that connects Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri. This is the only Great Walk that I know where it is easy to walk to and from. We walked back to Te Anau where we were booked into a nice hotel with a bath. We had a marvellous time, having spent time with wonderful people from all over the world, The Rangers were great, as was the DOC. The system had worked well from initial enquiry to completion. There were no surprises (apart from the snow) Everthing was more or less as we had been advised before we left the UK.