The boat ride which took us 50 minutes in a fast boat each way across flooded areas and an ancient canal is absolutely enjoyable. Something off the beaten tourist track. You get a glimpse of the real, rural Cambodia.
The boat ride which took us 50 minutes in a fast boat each way across flooded areas and an ancient canal is absolutely enjoyable. Something off the beaten tourist track. You get a glimpse of the real, rural Cambodia.
Phnom Da is a pre-Angkor temple in Takeo province. It is an easy day trip from Phnom Penh and quite an easy drive through scenic rural Cambodia. The temple itself is in ruins and not much is left except the outer shell structure, but the view from the top of the hill of flat rice fields and the Vietnam border (if the guide is to be believed) is quite worth it. There are slightly less than a 1000 steps if you climb up from one side. The linga and yoni that were originally part of the temple can be found at the Angkor Borei museum, about 8 kms away. (Foreigners have to pay USD 1 to get to the museum). Like in other parts of Cambodia, there are some stories of Khmer Rouge horrors associated with this ruin as well, which adds to its melancholy. There are many paths to the top and depending on fitness level, one can choose to tramp through the forest, hike up a steep path or climb stairs. Worth the visit, but definitely needs more information on the pre-Angkor Funan civilisation, which is not easily available.
It is really worthly to take one of the small boats in Takeo and navigate to this loney temple uphill in a tiny rural village. One of the oportunities to visit a khmer monument out of the tourist mass of Angkor
Arrived by speed boat after travelling the canal lined by rice fields and duck farms. Spot the fishermen raking the river bottom for shell fish and shrimps This temple is situated above a very small village called Prek Ta Phor, which in itself was interesting as an example of rural life. Accompanied up the steps by the local children who were very polite and practiced their English on us. 114 steps might not sound a lot but in the heat and humidity it felt a lot more. The temple is in need of some love and care, but the view is quite spectacular out over Angkor Borei province.
After decades of obscurity due to the Vietnam War, the Khmer Rouge and kidnappings of foreigners, the archaeological site of Angkor is now world famous, with over 1 million foreign tourists coming there in spite of a depressed Eurozone.
Fascinatingly, Angkor was probably the third Hindu-Buddhist kingdom thrown up by the Khmers. The former two, Funan and Chenla, remain as obscure as Angkor is now famous. Determined to get a glimpse of these lost kingdoms, we set off for watery Takeo province. Phnom Da is situated some 25 km from Takeo (a very bedraggled town). The only real way to get there is to hire a speedboat. This costs around $30 return, including a stop-over at Phnom Da and Angkor Borei, but the trip through the canals along the edge of the Mekong Delta is a big part of the appeal of this trip.
Phnom Da itself was also a pleasant surprise. The hill boasts two ancient temples. The larger of the two is situated on top of the hill, with panoramic views of the paddies, villages and canals. It is a surprisingly massive red-brick structure which dates back to the middle of the first millennium BC. It is the most solid remind of Chenla in Takeo, even if the roof was destroyed by a US bomb in the Vietnam War. (Viet Cong were hiding inside. The temple is only 8 kms from the border.) A second, much smaller temple, is half enclosed by the jungle a few hundred metres away. It is in such good condition it is hard to believe it has survived fourteen centuries without serious damage. This is a bit of hard work, but Phnom Da repays the effort.