About Erica F
Lives in Rome, Italy
Since Sep 2007
I am a travel and food writer based in Rome. For the past ten years, I have traveled up and down the Italian peninsula in search of great street art and even better food. I've traveled on my own, with my dog, with friends, with a boyfriend, and with a baby who is now a crazy six-year-old. Each time I see Italy differently. I keep returning to Sicily-- can't get enough of that island!
Flea & Street Markets
Farmers Markets, Flea & Street Markets
Perfect trattoria in a local neighborhood. Be hungry and be on the lookout for the mixed antipasto which includes deep fried goodies like panelle, crocchettine di patate, sfincionelli e frittini con acciughe e ricotta. Fish is first so try spaghetti with squid ink or a fish pasta with finocchietto and almonds. Nothing fancy. Just right.
Delicious little restaurant near the Capo market with a focus on fish. Arrive hungry enough to have the fried antipasti, the raw platter and then a fish-based pasta.
Street food is practically synonymous with Palermo. Panelle, arancine, cazilli and all those pop-up barbecues in between. It's worth your while to stop and taste. Usually you'll find the best near the beaches and the historic center.
Excellent and historic wine bar with a huge book of more than 1000 wines and spirits.
From sea to table, a relaxed spot for excellent locally fished seafood. "Ask and you shall receive" seems to be the motto for whatever fish you really want to eat. Nice because it is just outside of the chaos of Palermo and in the buzz of Mondello, a local beach neighborhood.
Spinnato is one of Palermo's foodie destinations. A historic pasticceria (pastry shop) with a seemingly never-ending selection of delicious pastries, ice cream and snacks.
Cappello is a Palermo favorite. The small pasticceria has quite possibly as the best cannoli and casatine in town, and they know it. It is always best and definitely worth the wait.
No frills panini and panelle spot in Piazza Marina. Cheap, cheerful and cash only. Here you'll find Palermo favorites like cazilli (deep fried potato mush), panelle (deep friend chick pea pancakes) and even the ever-popular spleen sandwich.
Though the Vucciria is no longer in its heyday, this historic center market is worth a visit to give you a little bit of an idea of old time Palermo life, and also for the street art in its surrounding alleys.
The Ballaro Market still maintains its days-of-yore vibe and a great selection of produce, meat, fish and spices from all over the Mediterranean basin. It's a real market so get up early, bring cash, and get ready to fight for what you want.