I LOVE that part of Moscow! Nestled a stone's throw from the Kremlin, on the opposite bank of the Moskva River, it was lucky to miraculously avoid communists' shenanigans and thus preserve its XIXth century charm.
Do submerge yourself in its numerous lanes and drives; you won't regret it. Carefully restored mansions, inconspicuous patios, trendy restaurants and cafés, health clubs, beauty parlors, bakeries, and whatever else one can imagine seem to be everywhere.
I loitered there in June for no purpose at all, just to while away my time, and really enjoyed my tour.
Strongly recommended! Authentic old Moscow. Its key attraction is the Tretyakov Gallery, of course.
(Zamoskvorechie means "beyond the Moskva River" in Russian.)