Things to do in Port Clements
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Things to Do in Port Clements
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- PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsNOTE: This review deals primarily with the “unmaintained” segment of the Golden Spruce Trail. To read more about the “official” portion, see my earlier review on this site.
The Golden Spruce Trail is a short, wide path that winds its way through beautiful moss-covered forest featuring awe-inspiring old growth red cedar and Sitka Spruce. Kiidk’yaas, the Golden Spruce, may be long gone but the massive trees that line this 400 meter trek still make the trail worthwhile. If one’s in need of some “forest therapy,” the Golden Spruce Trail will do you well: Take your time, amble about, and admire the leviathan-like trees before you. Consider how the forest itself is a living, breathing entity – everything depends upon everything else. The late Ben Davidson’s informative plaques – placed strategically along the trail – do much to educate and inform: “I am the grandmother of the Haida, one of thousands of trees [. . .] that grow to provide, nurture and teach.” And, importantly: “Look after me, and in turn, I will always look after you.” These are the lessons of the forest and we’d do well to heed these words.
Once you reach the end of the “official” trail (the viewpoint from which, once upon a time, you could observe Kiidk’yaas across the river), you’ll spy a small sign: “This trail is not maintained.” This marker indicates the start of the “unmaintained” section of the Golden Spruce Trail, which clocks in at over a kilometer in length. I couldn’t help but notice there are absolutely no write-ups about this section of the trail in any of the previous TripAdvisor reviews (I read all of them), Google, All Trails, Go Haida Gwaii, and various online blogs. How come? I know the skeleton of the Golden Spruce (what’s left of it), and the old growth trees along the official trail, are the main attraction, but surely the rest of the trail merits comment? Setting out with friends, I sought to answer that very question AND fill a void with respect to commentary on this trail.
In brief, this segment of the Golden Spruce Trail is quite easy to navigate. A small section of the trail – immediately behind the “unmaintained” signage – has been taken out by a previous storm, but an alternate path has been carved out presumably by people wishing to keep this route “user maintained.” The rest of the trail is fairly clear, with minimal deadfall; in fact, I’d suggest this route very much mirrors the “official” portion since it, too, is rife with lush mosses and beautiful old growth. Where it differs is in the occasional grassy field you’ll come upon + the attractive sandbank (about 10 minutes in). I’d argue this latter feature is the highlight of the unmaintained section and, therefore, represents an ideal place to picnic or simply take it all in.
In my view, the reason you may wish to hike the unmaintained route is for the golden opportunity it presents to explore more of the Yaaguun Gandlaay Conservancy. The Conservancy, as I’ve written elsewhere, has been used by the Haida for at least 10,000 years and is rife with historic, cultural, social and spiritual meaning. As you walk along the Golden Spruce Trail (“official” and “unmaintained”), you can capture glimpses of this: Ben Davidson’s information plaques highlight culture and spirituality; the Yakoun and its riverbank is rich and teeming with life, providing sustenance on numerous levels; and, the trail’s ability to bring us all together – to create dialogue about conservation – is an important social function.
Reviewing the unmaintained section of the Golden Spruce Trail in isolation, I’d probably rate it at 3 stars because, while a nice hike, the scenery doesn’t change all that much from the “official” portion of the trail. Reviewing it within the context of the full trail and Yaaguun Gandlaay, however, I’d rate it at a solid 4 stars because, taken as a whole, the trail highlights and reflects some of the Conservancy’s best features.Written 18 May 2022This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - Professional-PilgrimQuebec, Canada1,342 contributionsThis is the smallest of HG's museums, but is worth a stop. The stuffed albino raven is one of the treasured artefacts, and there is even a video of the raven hopping around before he was sadly electrocuted.Written 22 August 2018This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews.
- PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsI vaguely recall patronizing this Haida Canoe in 1996 following a visit to the then still-standing Golden Spruce. I think it was also around this time that Port Clements’ famed albino raven was still making the rounds before getting fried on a transformer near the Golden Spruce Motel (I’m glad I got to see it still living). Who would’ve thought 25 years would pass before I visited this canoe again?
First, the technical stuff: The Haida Canoe Trail is located roughly 8km past the Golden Spruce Trail, along the Port Man Forest Service Road. You will notice a large sign that says “HAIDA CANOE” on the side of the road, at the “Y” before the Port Man turns into the QC Mainline. The sign is impossible to miss and it points you in the direction of the old Haida canoe. I would not recommend driving up the old road leading to the trailhead. When my partner and I visited, there was a lot of deadfall – rather large branches – strewn across large sections of the road. Instead, I’d recommend simply parking on the side of the main road and walking towards the trailhead. If you’re worried about traffic getting by your vehicle – don’t. The Forest Service Road in this area is sufficiently wide for traffic to pass safely.
The Haida Canoe Trail is a brisk 400 meters in length from the signed trailhead, though it’s probably closer to 700 meters if you include the section of old road outside the HAIDA CANOE sign. Regardless, it is an easy hike – less than 10-minutes one-way. Once you reach the “Canoe Trail” signage, the route is single-track, but is well-maintained. After a little over 5 minutes, the dense forest opens up to the unfinished Haida Canoe. This canoe, now surrounded by thick salal bushes, is estimated to be around 150 years old. It’s quite remarkable that, even after all this time, you can still make out the shaping of the canoe’s bow and stern along with the flattening of the top in preparation for its hollowing out via steam.
Beyond being able to view this amazing artifact, I think what I like most about it is the story it tells. This canoe, and others like it (there are apparently dozens strewn about Haida Gwaii’s forests), is a powerful reminder of all that was lost when the smallpox epidemic hit the Islands in the early 1860s. It’s not hard to imagine the carvers of this canoe succumbing to the disease, resulting in its abandonment in the forest. In the contemporary period, one could also suggest that this canoe and the story behind it helps to inform as to why the residents of Haida Gwaii fought so hard to keep visitors away during the early stages of the COVID pandemic. History can teach us much if we have but the eyes to see and ears to listen.Written 14 September 2021This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsEstablished in 2008, the 2,722 hectare Kamdis Heritage Site/Conservancy is located on the eastern side of Masset Inlet, Kumdis & Graham Islands, between Port Clements and Masset. Because of its proximity to Port Clements, the Conservancy isn’t difficult to access via motor car. If traveling from Port Clements, I’ve found that there are 3 easy entry points heading northward towards Masset:
1) Kumdis Divide/Francis Homestead Trail: Approximately 15km outside Port Clements, you’ll see the trailhead opposite hydro pole 369. For much of its 4km (one-way) length, the “trail” follows an old skid road and passes by remnants of early settler activity. Of note, this trail is named after Francis Evans, the eldest son of Edward Evans. The family tried, unsuccessfully, to farm in the Kumdis Slough. NOTE: While interesting from a historical perspective, I wouldn’t recommend hiking this trail. Because of its very close proximity to the North Coast Regional District “refuse dump,” the area stinks of garbage and waste. In fact, the early portion of this trail is littered with debris. The smell practically guarantees you many taan (bear) encounters!
2) Kumdis Slough/Evans Homestead Trail: Approximately 19km outside Port Clements, you can access this 2km trail (one-way) – and enter the Kamdis Conservancy – at the end of Nadu Road. The trail is not formally maintained, but is easy to navigate. The first kilometer or so just follows an old skid road, bringing you to Masset Inlet. After walking the old road for about 15 minutes, you’ll have to use a beautiful natural log bridge to cross the Nadu River. After crossing, follow the trail back out to Masset Inlet. Here, you will spy the first major piece of colonial history: An old rotting dock which, because of the moss and small trees growing on it, has become quite photogenic. From here, walk south along the shoreline for approximately 20 minutes and you’ll come upon an old stone breakwater. After 100 years, only a small portion has collapsed, which speaks to the skill, care and craftsmanship that went into building structures at this site. Finding the actual homestead proved to be a bit tricky. We initially missed the trail and ended up climbing a fairly steep and muddy embankment before reaching it. Little did we know that the trail we sought was almost immediately behind the breakwater (oops!). Anyway, nothing much of the homestead remains; however, the rhododendrons – planted in 1911 – are worth the trip on their own. Their massive size and beautiful colouring offer a nice contrast to some of the surroundings. When we hiked to this site, I was just tickled pink, as they say. NOTE: Once upon a time, at the old dock mentioned earlier, you could walk approximately 1.6km up an old road towards the remains of a peat moss plant, which was built in 1967; however, as of this writing, that trail is closed – probably because of how extremely grown in it is.
3) Watun River Road: Approximately 25km outside Port Clements, you’ll encounter the Watun River Bridge. To the left of the bridge, you’ll see a rough dirt road; this is the Watun River Road. If you’re traveling in a truck, the road can be driven; however, if driving a small car, I’d recommend parking adjacent the bridge and walking the length of this road (takes about 10 minutes). Once you reach the road’s terminus, you’ll come upon a beautiful grassland and Masset Sound. Looking out towards the water, you’ll see even more settler history: The remains of Watun River Cannery – established in 1919 and closed by 1930 – are jutting out of the placid waters. Interestingly, the cannery was built on a Haida Nation seasonal fishing site. For me, this area is my favourite site in the Kamdis Conservancy because it is very easy to access AND highlights so much of what makes this protected area interesting: 1) Haida history; 2) Settler history; 3) The unique wetlands that’ve made Kamdis an internationally significant area for waterfowl, shorebirds and fish; and, 4) The area is endlessly photogenic.
You can, of course, access much more of Kamdis via boat, but most of us don’t have that luxury. Thus, the three points of entry I’ve outlined here are the most realistic. And while Kamdis does contain many Haida cultural features, the great majority of them aren’t easily accessible. As such, what strikes me as kind of unique about this Conservancy – outside of the intertidal estuarine wetlands – is the amount of early settler history contained within it.
Once you’ve finished exploring Kamdis, I’d recommend checking out other nearby points of interest to complement the experience you’ve just had: Yaaguun Gandlaay, Kumdis River Trail and Pure Lake are all close at hand. Enjoy!Written 16 December 2021This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsI first became aware of the Nadu Homestead Trail thanks to “Backroad Mapbooks” (physical maps available at the QCC Visitor Centre). I swear, if BRMB didn’t indicate the location of trails on Haida Gwaii I’d probably miss most of them because a good number don’t have official signed trailheads. Of course, even with the guide, some trails can be a bit tricky to locate. When I learned of Nadu Homestead, I remember thinking, “huh? I’ve driven by Nadu Road and I don’t recall seeing a trail just off the highway!” On a subsequent return, though, I did spy the trail – it was just difficult to see through all the thick salal bushes!
In any event, the Nadu Homestead Trail – an old settler wagon road – is located approximately 20 kilometers east of Port Clements, heading towards Masset. Once you see the intersection for Nadu Road, you’ll know you’re in the right place – the trail is directly across the highway. Unfortunately, there’s no real parking available; so, if you wish to hike the trail, I’d recommend parking on the side of Nadu Road and then walking across to the trail.
Once you push your way through the thick salal bushes, the trail opens up into a visible wagon road. From here on out, the trail stretches just over 2-kilometers one-way and takes you through unique bog environment and some old growth corridors. Navigating the bog can be a bit delicate and very wet, so make sure you have waterproof footwear . . . and be mindful of where you tread so as not to disturb the flora endemic to the area.
As we hiked the route, it became readily apparent that the trail is scarcely used. There’s little in the way of markers along the trail; however, this shouldn’t dissuade potential hikers. The route is quite literally a straight line, so it’s difficult to get lost. Just make sure you don’t stray from the trail because parts are extremely overgrown and one could get disoriented (see photos).
The Nadu Homestead Trail essentially comes to an end at an old dilapidated bridge. While it is possible to cross using some creative techniques, we don’t feel it’s worth the effort (and risk) because the route ends a few minutes later, anyway.
So, why would one wish to hike this trail? Well, there’s the historical aspect: it’s an old settler wagon road, built circa 1910, to access parcels of land further inland. As such, you can see remnants of this early effort to “develop” Haida Gwaii: The clear evidence of the wagon road itself; the hand-dug ditches along the wagon road; old corduroy bridges (especially at the bog); and, vestiges of settler homesteads. Indeed, it’s not difficult to use one’s imagination and transport yourself back to the early 20th century and picture ye olde horse and buggy ambling about these old roads!
Beyond history, the Nadu Homestead Trail also offers an opportunity to explore and experience unique flora: Labrador Tea, Cow Berry, bog rosemary, cloudberry, and fairly slippers, amongst a whole host of others.
In brief, there’s plenty of reasons to explore Nadu; however, I’ll stop short of saying it’s a “must do” trail on Haida Gwaii. You can access the bog, yes, but you can also do that on the more popular White Creek Trail near Tow Hill. “But,” you might say, “you can also see remnants of colonial history!” And that’s true, but this can also be done on a number of Haida Gwaii’s trails including Cape Fife further north or the “Evans Homestead Trail” at the terminus of Nadu Road. Of course, Haida Gwaii is all about adventure and the Nadu Homestead Trail certainly offers plenty of that!Written 11 April 2022This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsEstablished in 2008, the 2,689 hectare Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site/Conservancy can be accessed approximately 5km southeast of Port Clements via Bayview Drive. Bayview eventually turns into the Port Man Forest Service Road, which provides greater access to the Conservancy. Please be advised that you’ll be traveling along active logging roads, so proper deference and caution should be exercised while exploring the area.
Yaaguun Gandlaay has been used by the Haida people for at least 10,000 years for cultural, spiritual and social purposes. Historically, the Conservancy contained a number of ancient Haida villages and seasonal camp sites, including Hlakeguns, Yagunkun and Undlskadjuns – all located near the Yakoun. If you’re visiting Yaaguun Gandlaay hoping to see any visible remnants of these sites . . . well, keep dreaming, because nature has completely taken them back . . . as she should. Of course, that’s not to say there are no ancient cultural sites remaining, because there are plenty throughout the Conservancy. You just have to know where to look! Those with a keen eye can spot many a culturally modified tree (CMT). Interestingly, more explicit evidence of ancient Haida land use and culture can be found just outside the boundaries of Yaaguun Gandlaay at the “Haida Canoe Trail” (see my review on this site), which is located adjacent the Port Man Forest Service Road, approximately 11km outside Port Clements.
As one travels the Conservancy, it’s easy to see why the site is protected. On the land, you’re basically surrounded on all sides by beautiful examples of old growth spruce, cedar, and Western hemlock trees. In fact, the Conservancy is home to some of the Island’s largest remaining cedars – something that leaves you in awe when you experience them up close. On the water, the Yakoun estuary is the only one on Haida Gwaii that serves as habitat for ALL coastal salmon species – Chinook, chum, coho, sockeye and pinks. It also serves as home to steelhead and cutthroat trout. The area is also an important migratory stop for numerous species of birds.
In terms of recreational activities, Yaaguun Gandlaay is fairly diverse thanks to the number of service/logging roads that cross the Conservancy. These roads – and side roads – provide easy access to the Yakoun for fishing, hiking and picnicking with the family. I’ve also noted some sites to be suitable for camping. I should probably stress that one shouldn’t drive onto the side roads unless operating a truck, because these can become quite rough and miry. The main service roads – Port, QC Mainline, and East Yakoun – can be driven with a standard vehicle with some caution, however.
Of course, the most notable and popular site in the Conservancy is the Golden Spruce Trail. In my earlier review of that attraction (2017), I described the whole thing as “a very serene – almost spiritual – experience.” That’s because the Golden Spruce Trail, perhaps more succinctly than anywhere else within the borders of the Conservancy, brings history, culture and spirituality together into a beautiful gestalt. The walk may be brief at 400 meters (one-way), but the weight of what you experience is almost immeasurable. First, there are the monumental cedars and the old growth Sitka spruce, which tower above us and make us realize how small we are (epiphany); then there’s the massive nurse logs found along the trail, nurturing the forest’s next generation (nature); then there are the informative plaques, which highlight Haida cultural values with respect to the land and all that it does for us (culture & spirituality); and at the trail’s main terminus point, we can see the skeleton of the Golden Spruce, felled in 1997 by a deranged logging protester (history). Recognizing the central role of Kiidk’yaas (Golden Spruce) in Haida history and storytelling, we cannot help but feel angered by the misguided “action” taken by one individual.
NOTE: The full Golden Spruce trail is approximately 1.5km long; however, only the first 400 meters are formally maintained. The remaining kilometer or so is “user maintained” and, despite recent storms, is still an easy, inspiring hike up the Yakoun River. Once you reach a point at which you’d like to stop, take a moment to reflect, re-charge and relax in nature.
All in all, the Yaaguun Gandlaay Heritage Site/Conservancy is definitely worth visiting. The area is quite large, but the numerous service roads provide easy access to many popular sites. Whether you’re into fishing, hiking, camping, history or culture, the Conservancy has plenty to keep you busy. If you have the time, I’d definitely recommend exploring the various side roads. There’s no telling what treasures – natural or historic – you may find. On the other hand, if you’re pressed for time, then the Golden Spruce Trail offers a nice, concise summary of Yaaguun Gandlaay and why it’s important.Written 19 May 2022This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsWe came upon this small monument quite by chance. There are no signs indicating its presence, so you basically have to keep your eyes open. We obviously weren’t looking for it – because we didn’t know it existed – but somehow managed to spy it on the side of the road. What, or who, is this small monument for?
According to the inscription, this cairn is dedicated to Donald Henkel who “was a coastal logger for most of his life” and a “rebel and an outlaw with swagger, not style.” I like how the inscription is kind of tongue-in-cheek; it alludes to the character of the man in just a few words. I’m just disappointed there isn’t more information readily available on Mr. Henkel. I would assume, however, that he was a logger in Port Clements, given the monument’s proximity to that community.
So, where is this monument? Assuming you’re traveling towards Port Clements from Tlell, it is approximately 2 kilometers outside of Port. Once you pass the blue information sign, keep your eyes peeled to the right of the highway. If you don’t blink, you just might spot it! While probably not worth a trip on its own, the memorial makes for a nice brief stop en route to elsewhere.
PS: The TripAdvisor map appears to be waaay off!Written 26 July 2021This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsThe Sunset Park Trail, located along Bayview Drive, is an easy 2.7km (one-way) out-and-back trail in the Village of Port Clements. The terrain is flat and basically follows the Yakoun Estuary the entire way. The trail is so flat, in fact, that Port Clements even suggests it is wheelchair friendly. I’m not sure about that claim, but I guess you COULD do the trail in a wheelchair if you have wide wheels on said chair – not the standard narrow ones.
The scenery is quite beautiful at low tide but is, I think, a little one-note if you’re walking the trail at high tide. As you amble about the path, there are a few strategically placed benches facing towards the estuary so that one can fully take in, and appreciate, the vivid scenes unfolding before them. In addition, there are a couple interpretive signs along the trail, which link to Port’s early logging history. For me, the highlight here is the clear evidence of springboard logging. It’s an interesting callback to the golden age of logging on Haida Gwaii.
At the trail’s terminus point, you will come upon a lovely two-storey birdwatching tower. Climb the stairs (or walk the wheelchair ramp!) to receive some beautiful views of Yakoun Bay and watch the Herons and Eagles frolic and play. On a clear day, it’s quite easy for one to get “lost” up here.
Once you’ve finished your Sunset Park Trail adventure, walk back the way you came OR take one of the many exits out onto the main road for a more urban hike.
As far as trails on Haida Gwaii are concerned, this one is definitely the easiest in terms of difficulty. In that respect, seasoned hikers – or even newbies – may find it a little underwhelming; however, there is no denying that it’s suitable for the whole family. The birding tower is a lot of fun and I enjoyed the clear references to logging’s glory years, but I’m not sure if there’s enough “repeat” value unless one is staying at the adjoining campsite or lives in the area?
ADDENDUM – SUNSET PARK TRAIL EXTENSION:
The Sunset Park Trail extension was developed about a half dozen years ago and adds just over a kilometer to the original trail. The extension begins at the Sunset Park Trail parking lot, just off Bayview Drive. Once you park your vehicle, follow the well-manicured path to the right (beside a newly installed pit toilet). After about a minute or two, you will have to cross the road to continue the trail. The extension then follows alongside Bayview Drive for approximately 300 meters before going up a slight incline and snaking behind Yakoun, Tingley and Park Streets. At this point, you almost feel as if you’re trespassing because you come into such close proximity to homes. In any event, the trail eventually passes by Port Clements’ Community Park (home to annual Canada Day celebrations) and follows Falcon Street before ducking into a wooded area and emerging at Bayview Drive, across from the Port Clements Museum.
The extension is also wheelchair friendly; however, in my view, it lacks the appeal of the original Sunset Park Trail. It is far more urban and, I think, was developed more for locals as a quick way to navigate the community. As such, I’d recommend sticking to the “original” route . . . unless you’re a completist ;)Written 16 May 2022This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews. - PookyCakeVictoria, Canada14,832 contributionsAh, the Kumdis River Trail! I’ve had my eye on this short 800-meter (one-way) trail ever since the Backroad Mapbooks, which are readily available at the Queen Charlotte Visitor Information Centre, highlighted the trail route for me. I imagined it to be quite picturesque, offering stunning views of Kumdis Bay. And I’ll be honest: It certainly does provide nice views of the bay; however, I’m not really sure the hike lived up to its real or perceived hype.
Like most trails on Haida Gwaii, this one does not have formal signage indicating the trailhead. If driving from Port Clements to Masset, you will spy the trailhead a mere 2 kilometers outside the village. As you’re driving along Yellowhead 16 from Port, you’ll inevitably come upon a small pullout to the left of Kumdis River Bridge. For all intents and purposes, this dirt road represents the trailhead. I would not recommend driving down the short road because there is not enough room to turn around; however, I suppose one could back down and safely get out.
Once you reach the Kumdis River—immediately adjacent the bridge – you’ll see how and why one might assume the hike would present many fantastic photo opportunities. On a clear and calm day, the Kumdis River often acts like a mirror. The trees on the river’s opposite side flawlessly reflect on the water. The end result is almost dreamlike – the serene beauty practically unmatched. Unfortunately, I do have to say this represents the highlight of the Kumdis River Trail, in my view.
The rest of this short hike, which takes roughly 30 minutes to complete roundtrip, is fairly uneventful. The trail is not formally maintained, and does not have trail markers, but is still pretty easy to follow. The route basically adheres to the river and eventually takes you out onto Kumdis Bay. At the time we hiked the trail, there was minimal deadfall; thus, I would rate this as an easy hike. The stunted and moss-covered trees near the grasslands were pretty eye-catching.
Once out on the grasslands, you can observe Kumdis Bay in all its glory. The spot is suitable for bird-watching or, as one local told me, duck-hunting! While here, you can also spy an abandoned barge in the bay – makes for some nice photos. However, contrary to the Haida Gwaii Trails Strategy, I would not advise using this area as a picnic spot. I imagine that would likely attract unwanted guests!
All in all, the Kumdis River Trail is a nice, easy hike. Is it a “must do?” I don’t think so – at least not going all the way out to the grasslands. If photography is your primary objective, then the views immediately adjacent to Kumdis River Bridge should suffice.Written 6 July 2021This review is the subjective opinion of a Tripadvisor member and not of Tripadvisor LLC. Tripadvisor performs checks on reviews.
