Spend a rocking weekend on the Jersey Shore

Greetings from Asbury Park. This year marks the 50th anniversary of The Stone Pony, the legendary rock venue where Bruce Springsteen got his start. But this club isn’t stuck in the past—just like Asbury Park itself, it’s a place that’s always moving forward and reinventing. “There’s a lot of good energy here. It’s really booming,” says Kyle Brendle, the longtime house promoter at The Stone Pony.

What Brendle loves about this beachfront city: “It’s a very welcoming and open community with free-spirited people that embrace arts and entertainment,” says Brendle.

Kathy Kelly—a historian, founder of Paranormal Books, and local tour guide—feels the same way about Asbury Park. “You can find the sun, the sand, and the ocean in a lot of places,” she says. “But what’s special about Asbury Park is that it’s a crossroads for diversity.”

Kelly started coming to Asbury Park back in the ‘90s for its legendary Pride festival—and after a few years, she was hooked. “At the time it was the wild west, and there was an amazing underground vibe,” she says. “I used to call Cookman Avenue the ‘Avenue of Dreams.’ There were no corporate investments, no franchises. It was all independents who were taking their shot at doing what they always wanted to do—artists and musicians and all manner of people who were in this great stew of creativity.”

On her tours, Kelly will show you hidden gems and give you a taste of Asbury’s rich past. This beachfront resort town used to be called the “Jewel of the Jersey Shore.” In the late 1800s and early 1900s, urbanites from New York and Philly decamped here in the summer to stay at lavish Victorian hotels. But with competition from other destinations, Asbury Park went into decline.

You could say Asbury Park is currently on its third wave of revitalization. And though some things have gotten slicker (think shiny million-dollar condos and sleek hotels with membership clubs), this city still retains a cool edge. One person who has been a key part of helping push Asbury forward while preserving its past is Jenn Hampton, who moved to Asbury in 2003 when the city was still down and out. “I call her ‘the muse of Asbury Park’ because I think she has created the Asbury Park aesthetic more than pretty much anybody else,” says Kelly. “Fifty years from now when there’s a documentary on how Asbury Park became the greatest resort town in the history of the world, they’re going to trace it back and say ‘It was this woman that did it.’ Jenn Hampton is the thread that stitches us all together.”

Hampton helped transform the original Asbury Lanes, a vintage bowling alley, into a cool live music and performance art venue, founded the influential Parlor Gallery (which showcases local artists), and created the Wooden Walls Project, which has beautified the city with murals on abandoned historical buildings. Take, for instance, the Carousel House, a beaux-arts structure built in 1929 by the same architects as Grand Central. Thanks to Hampton, it’s now home to stunning murals and hosts all kinds of events. “I don’t think they should rush developing our most precious commodities, which are our historical buildings,” says Hampton. “So I’m hoping to give them life in a way that might be temporary. Or maybe if I can raise enough money, it will be permanent.”

Asbury’s also got a corner on the Jersey food scene, thanks to visionaries like David Viana, who opened Heirloom and oversees all the food and drinks at The St. Laurent Social Club & Guest Rooms, based in an 1800s building that was the first woman-owned hotel in New Jersey. “I’m a Jersey boy, but I never imagined myself living down the shore. I thought it was a little bit cookie cutter and too Pleasantville for me,” says Viana. “I like a little grit, a little bit of culture. And then I found Asbury Park, and it had this up-and-coming food scene.” Viana originally moved here to help launch Barrio Costero, a coastal-Mexican-fusion restaurant—and that was that. “Once I got to Asbury, I loved it and decided to stay,” he says.

So join us as we catch some shows; stuff ourselves with pizza, cupcakes, and pork belly; and soak up the rays and the welcoming vibes of the Jersey Shore’s favorite comeback kid.

Back in the day, Asbury Park was filled with hotels—from huge resorts with bowling alleys and carousels to small boarding houses with loads of charm. Some of those spots have been brought back to life together with a handful of gleaming new builds.

An old Victorian B&B has been converted into a stylish boutique property with a members-only club. Luckily visitors don’t have to be a member to stay in the 20 high-design rooms, dine at Heirloom restaurant (where Viana’s aim is to serve the most elevated food in town), or have drinks at the bar run by Ricardo Rodriguez (formerly of Miami’s legendary Broken Shaker).

It’s all about the ocean at this hotel set on the fourth floor of a luxury condo building. The rooms have private terraces and dazzling water views. The stunning pool looks like it blends right into the sea. And the spa has plenty of marine-inspired treatments to keep you in that aquatic vibe.

This former Salvation Army has been transformed into an out-of-the-box hotel with plenty to fill your feed. Check out the VW bus that’s been converted into a poolside bar, the rooftop bar with DJ sets and ocean panoramas, and the open-air screening room that feels like a very luxe version of a drive-in movie theater.

Producer Shep Pettibone, the wiz behind Madonna’s Vogue, is also the magician behind the Empress, a low-slung ‘60s hotel that’s now a hub for Asbury’s LGBTQ community (the pool scene is off the hook).

Viana—who has been nominated for a James Beard Award and was featured on Top Chef—knows his way around a food scene. He says Asbury’s buzz is a result of the mix of cultures here and in nearby towns. “There’s upscale Mexican, Korean barbecue, Azerbaijani kebabs, and more—all within 10 minutes of each other. That to me screams culture,” says Viana.

Frank’s Deli - “Frank’s has been around 50 years. Anthony Bourdain ate here and featured it on No Reservations, so it’s that kind of an establishment—a greasy spoon done well,” says Viana. The winning dish that’s made it onto many best-of lists: Frank’s pork roll breakfast sandwich.

Toast - The motto at this upscale diner is “peace, love, and pancakes.” Pancake flavors run the gamut: red velvet, carrot cake, challah, bananas foster, and more. There are also bowls, scrambles, omelets, bennys—you name it.

Dolce Fantasia - This colorful Northern Italian-slash-French restaurant is the offshoot of a spot in Staten Island. “I went for brunch the other day and had their French toast. It’s life changing,” says Kelly.

Cafe Volan - All the cool kids hang out at this cafe in the historic Steinbach Building, which caters to all your caffeine needs (don’t miss the spicy mocha latte).

Talula's Pizza - According to Viana, Talula’s “is one of the founding fathers” of Asbury Park’s new dining scene. “There was not a lot happening in this town before they showed up,” he says. Order the Beekeeper’s Lament (Talula’s claim to fame) or one of the lunch sandwiches (the turkey or Reuben are the way to go).

AP Rooftop - For coastal Mediterranean dishes (think Sicilian orange salad, feta-topped lamb chops, roasted branzino with fennel), head to this new rooftop spot with staggering ocean views.

Catbird - This artisan pizza place with a wood-fired kitchen is set in a 100-year old cabin on the banks of Deal Lake. “It’s got a Nantucket vibe, and the food is absolutely phenomenal. I recently had the margherita pizza, and I have been thinking about it for the past three weeks. It reminded me of being in Naples,” says Kelly.

Kim Marie’s Eat n’ Drink Away - This Irish-inspired pub serves up twists on pub grub—reviewers rave about the shrimp scampi grilled cheese. And bring your dog: They get their own menu.

The Grand Tavern in Neptune - This restaurant is worth the five-minute detour to nearby Neptune—but wear your stretchy pants. According to Viana, its menu fully embraces butter, fat, and heavy cream in the most delicious way. Another reason for the trek? “They’ve got the best burger in New Jersey,” he says.

Barrio Costero - This restaurant in the historic Asbury Park Press Building is what got Viana to move here, and he still loves it. “It’s a gem where you can get great hospitality and upscale Mexican food,” he says. Don’t miss the shrimp tacos, which some critics say are the best on the Jersey Shore.

Reyla - Right next to Barrio Costero, sister restaurant Reyla serves up shareable Middle Eastern dishes like lamb kofta with sumac carrot and sesame sukkah. “I love both Barrio Costero and Reyla,” says Kelly. “There’s something really unique about the way both of those restaurants present their tapas-based food, and they make you feel like you’re with friends when you’re there.”

Kimchee Mama - Viana recommends this family-owned Korean barbecue spot for its “great Korean chicken wings,” which are double fried, crispy on the outside, and tender inside.

Ada's Gojjo - Set in a strip mall, this Ethiopian-Dominican fusion spot serves up empanadas, plantains, and Ethiopia’s signature platters of stews, veggies, and flatbread.

Flame Kabob House in Neptune - Viana can’t get enough of the mixed grill kebabs at this Azerbaijani restaurant in nearby Neptune.

Heirloom at the St. Laurent - Chef Viana serves up a three-course prix fixe that plays on nostalgia with—as he describes it—“culturally inspired dishes.” His hallmark is a Jamaican jerk duck. “You could call it the gateway drug to fine dining,” he says with a laugh. “I really love playing with nostalgia and familiarity. It’s polished but not pretentious. Our goal is to always make sure that you’re having a good time.”

Jimmy's - An old-school Italian red-sauce joint with all the classics: lasagna, chicken parm, clams casino, stuffed artichokes. “Everyone talks about this spot,” says Hampton.

The Black Swan - You might have caught James Avery on Hell’s Kitchen—he survived as sous chef for Gordan Ramsay. His latest act is this upscale modern spin on a European gastropub, with bacon cheddar tots, fish and chips, and chicken tikka masala.

Bond Street - “If you like a great dive bar, this is the place,” says Viana. But don’t expect a warm reception: The bar’s tagline is “GFY” (short for “Go F* Yourself”), and the staff embraces that edgy attitude. Their food is surprisingly good, too. “They serve a killer patty melt,” says Viana.

R Bar & Restaurant - A local who cut his teeth running some of New York City’s top restaurants recently moved back home to open this Spanish-themed wine and tapas bar. “I love to let them curate something for me. It’s cool to experience the pintxos with Spanish wines,” says Dunn.

Paradise - This long-standing club attached to the Empress Hotel is paradise for the LGBTQ crowd. Look for tea dances, drag shows, and more. “It’s still an iconic place for the LGBTQ community,” says Kelly. Although today, she says, you’ll find “a real crossover crowd” drawn to the high-energy dance scene.

Confections of a Rock$tar - Owner Kimmee Masi tried to make it as a rock star, but when that didn’t work out, she decided to become a rock-star baker. Her music-themed bakery sells clever treats like the Macaroon 5 (get it?), Haulin Oats (an oatmeal raisin cookie), and O-reo Speedwagon (an Oreo cupcake).

“You can come here for a weekend and sit on the beach and have great food and great drinks—and if that’s all you do, you’re going to have a great time,” says Kelly. “Or you could say, ‘I’m going to get on a bike and ride around this little 1.6-mile city and go to really important historical places and see really great architecture and art and watch a city being reborn.’” We know what we’re picking.

Asbury Park Ghost Tour - Kelly’s paranormal tours have year-round appeal that goes way beyond spooky season. “For me, all history is paranormal history,” she says about the area’s past lives. “That’s one of the reasons why I love Asbury Park—you can walk into these old buildings or down these old streets or even on the beach, and you feel the weight of its history surrounding you.”

Wooden Walls Project - Scattered throughout Asbury Park are massive colorful murals commissioned by Hampton on abandoned buildings. “​But remember, it's all going away,” says Kelly. “And that’s what the wooden walls are about. They’re about the transient nature of life and art, and to stop for a moment and enjoy it while it’s there because it’s not going to be there forever.”

Carousel Building - Hampton is the force of nature who has helped transform this abandoned seaside space. Besides the spectacular murals, there are all kinds of art performances.

Parlor Gallery - “I don’t think a trip to Asbury Park is complete without visiting Parlor Gallery,” says Kelly. Here, Hampton curates exhibitions of emerging and established New Jersey artists.

Silverball Retro Arcade - It’s part museum, part fun factory at this arcade filled with hundreds of pinball machines—some dating back to the 1950s—plus retro video games, Skee-Ball, and more.

“People here are passionate about all things Asbury,” says Brendle. “They love participating in all these events that we have on the boardwalk—Asbury Jams (a Thursday summer concert series at Wonder Bar), the mermaid parade in July, and Sea.Hear.Now Festival in September. I can just keep rattling them off one after another. There are so many.” And that’s only the beginning. Here are some other music highlights.

The Stone Pony - Ever since it hit the scene in 1974, The Stone Pony has been an anchor in the local music scene. Besides The Boss, Steven Van Zandt and Southside Johnny used to play here. In summer, there’s a stage out back that hosts major acts.

Asbury Park Live - Bluegrass, folk, rock—you’ll hear it all at this free summer music series, held on Wednesday nights. And it’s got a good cause: It benefits the Asbury Music Foundation, which supports music education especially for local kids.

Asbury Lanes - This vintage bowling alley two blocks from the beach doubles as a concert venue, with a diner in case you get hungry between sets.

Transparent Clinch Gallery - Photographer Danny Clinch’s gallery showcases his photos of rock legends and hosts shows where you might catch the next big thing.

Whether you’re in the market for a book about ghost stories, a trucker hat, a bike, or a tattoo, this city has the answer, thanks to the creative class that makes Asbury what it is.

Paranormal Books & Curiosities - If you don’t take one of Kelly’s tours, stop by her store-slash-museum, which sells books, displays haunted artifacts, and hosts events like scary slumber parties and seances. “It’s dedicated to artifacts and the education of paranormal history, which is pretty cool,” says Hampton.

Rebel Supply - Because you know you need a sweatshirt emblazoned with the words “pork roll.” This quirky shop stocks T-shirts and hats, vintage clothes, housewares, and more.

Asbury Book Cooperative - Book clubs, author readings, kids’ storytime, and great beach reads? This treasured spot has it all.

Second Life Bikes - Want to grab a new set of wheels? You’ll find new and used bikes at this community-owned bike shop. “Kerri Martin, the owner, hires kids and adults from the west side to help her fix the bikes," says Hampton. "So they learn a craft, which is really cool.”